2019 June 22 to 29
Three impressive Alpine peaks — the Eiger, Moench, and Jungfrau — rise abruptly from the river valley in the central Alps on this gay Swiss hiking tour. During our week of hiking, these “Oberland Giants” form a constant backdrop to the shining green meadows and breathtaking cliffside paths.
The Swiss Alps were made for hiking, and no region of Switzerland offers a more picturesque setting than the Bernese Oberland. Our hiking trip is set deep in this mountain valley, in the centuries-old village of Grindelwald. To the south rise some of the best-known alpine peaks: The Eiger, Moench, and Jungfrau, and three glaciers. Unfolding more gently to the north are the meadows of wildflowers, forests, and mountain lakes that have made Switzerland such a favorite with calendar illustrators.
We’ll hike into both of these alpine worlds, walking along the base of the intimidating Eiger North Wall, near frosty glaciers, and through acres of green pastures dotted with brown cows and inquisitive goats.
The tour begins with a scenic train ride to transfer from the airport to our chalet. Switzerland’s rail system is among the best in the world: fast, comfortable, and efficient. As you pass the picturesque lakeside town of Thun, you may resolve to return to this pretty medieval town after your week of hiking.
Changing trains at Interlaken, you’ll see other hikers and climbers, the former easily recognized by the hiking poles that nearly all Europeans seem to favor; the latter by the ice-axes strapped to their bulging backpacks. Grindelwald is the end of the line, and as you step out onto the town’s lively main street after several hours on trains, one breath of mountain air will quickly revive you.
Our hiking trip begins with a 6:00 pm reception and orientation, followed by dinner, and time to meet a fun group of gay hikers.
Today’s hike will take us across a glacial river and past an abandoned marble quarry (once a source of jobs and income for the town) to arrive just outside Grindelwald. We will continue along an alpine trail above the icy crevasses of the “Lower Glacier.” Soon we’re hiking well above the glacier, with changing views of the icy mass below.
Lunch today is at a remote mountain restaurant that serves a surprisingly sophisticated menu for its unique location. After lunch, we will hike farther bringing us not only closer to the glacier but to Schreckhorn, a 4078-meter peak. Hardier hikers might get to the Schreckhorn hut before turning back.
Our final stop is at Gletscherschlucht, the narrow gorge whose vertical walls were carved into the rock by the churning waters of the glacier. A narrow boardwalk, jutting out from the cliff face, gives us a close-up look at the sculpted canyon and rushing waters below.
This morning most of us will probably choose to ride the lift up the north slopes, to a spot named “First”. But a few energetic souls may elect to hike up, and meet us there.
From First we hike along an easy trail to the blue mountain lake known as the Bachalpsee. A magnificent green pasture filled with cows, bells tinkling, extends down toward the valley floor. On a calm day, the distant snow-capped peaks reflect in the lake’s waters. Then the trail thins out, twisting beside a spiny ridge, past moonlike rock formations. Descending past a cascading waterfall, we pass a lush patch of wildflowers, and easily count a dozen varieties within an arm’s reach: red, yellow, blue, purple, white, pink, lavender.
You may want to stop for a late lunch at the mountain inn of Bussalp. Here, hikers again have a choice: to descend by foot, or on one of the ubiquitous yellow “Post Buses” that serves so many small Swiss hamlets such as this one.
Today there are several enticing options to try!
Today we will ride the Jungfrau cog rail train to Europe’s highest railroad station (3454 meters) on the massive Jungfrau mountain. The journey will take us over deep ravines and through mountain tunnels carved inside the Eiger and Monch. From here you’ll enjoy views of the Aletsch glacier, the longest in Europe. Roam the Ice Palace, carved into the blue glacier and decorated year-round with intricate ice sculptures; enjoy a run of summer skiing, or slide down the slopes on a snow disc.
Continue hiking part of the way back on the recently-opened Eiger trail right under the Nordwand (North Wall) of the Eiger, a vertiginous cliff that has defeated many a mountaineer. We won’t try any mountaineering ascents today, just a scenic hike, crossing the narrow, twisted gorges of glacier-fed streams, then winding through forest, until we emerge over (but on the other side of) the “Lower Glacier”.
Today’s suggested itinerary begins with a train ride to Lauterbrunnen, a picturesque village set in a cleft between two towering cliffs. Waterfalls spout out along either side, as we walk to Trummelbach Falls. Here, every second, glacier-fed streams pour up to 5,000 gallons of water down a series of ten waterfalls.
We will return back to the village where you can select one of the local cafes for lunch. After lunch, we will hike 930 vertical meters up a switch-backing path from Wengen to Mannlichen. Some of us will want to hike all the segments and others may want to take the cable car part of the way.
From Mannlichen, you can ride a mountain cable car right back to Grindelwald, but we hope you won’t: The high alpine trail over to Kleine Scheidegg is among everyone’s favorites. Gently descending as it passes around cliffs and peaks, this trail offers an ever-changing panorama of the mountains: The Eiger, the Monch, and the Jungfrau.
The Swiss alpine peaks have provided a magnificent scenery for us this week. On our last day, we wanted to cater to those more serious hikers. The Schynige Plateau offers one glorious option, and the Schwarzhorn offers a more challenging day. If your choice is for a lighter day the narrow-gauge Schynige Platte Cog Railroad engine chugs up to the Schynige Plateau for viewing a high ledge with a panoramic view of the imposing 15-kilometer-long Bernese Oberland wall.
For our serious hikers, this is an invigorating full-day of hiking. Portions of the trail follow a narrow ridge, dropping to views of the Eiger on the right, and to the placid blue waters of Lake Brienz on the left.
For those looking for a greater challenge, the jagged peak of Schwarzhorn, on a high crest to the north of Grindelwald, is accessible by several trails, some easier, some rougher. Hiking all the way there from Grindelwald makes for a full day.
As we descend, the trail takes us along an area popular with marmots, and again we enjoy a break while watching these gregarious, bushy-tailed creatures.
Our hiking week officially ends this morning. If you have early connections, you can depart as early as you’d like. Or you may want to pack up, store your bags, then squeeze in one last hike.
If you’ve got extra vacation time to spend in Europe, we suggest you save it for after the trip, rather than before: chances are that others in the group will welcome company as they explore the culture and gay life in Geneva, Zurich, Berne, or other Swiss cities.
Price includes: 7 nights lodging in shared or single room, with private bathroom; 6-day pass that covers MOST Jungfrau-area trains, buses and lifts, including the Jungfraujoch train; Welcome packet with map; Breakfast or breakfast supplies; Opening-night reception, orientation, and dinner; Two mid-week dinners; A beer-tasting, featuring regional specialties; Closing-night dinner at a superb local restaurant. HE Travel provides complimentary Medical & Evacuation Insurance for every US Resident on our group tours who does not have other coverage.
Not included: Transportation to and from Grindelwald (easily accessible by train); Meals not listed here; Optional activities, such as mountain biking and paragliding; Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone charges, alcohol (except when provided with a meal) and gratuities for guides.
Optional Tour Choices:
$1100 Single Supplement (for solo travelers who wish to enjoy a private bedroom and bathroom)
“The scenery is breathtaking. Bring extra film.”— Paul Anagnostos, Boston, MA
“Switzerland is one of my favorite destinations and the Alyson trip has made me want to go back again and again!”— Peter Workman, Luxembourg
“The Grindelwald itinerary exceeded all my expectations. Each day’s hikes delivered incredible and varied experiences. Everyone in our group could adapt the difficulty to meet their own stamina, and we left with a great feeling of having become familiar with such a beautiful and complex valley.” – Chad Nelson, Newark, DE
Most of our trips draw more single travelers than couples. When couples do join us, it’s usually because they’re looking forward to interacting with a gay group; if they wanted a holiday by themselves, they wouldn’t have signed up to travel with us. Furthermore, the activities included with our trips serve as natural ice-breakers. Within a day, you’ll be traveling with friends. You don’t need to pay the single supplement if you’re traveling alone. We’ll be happy to match you with a roommate. Pay the single supplement only if you want a bedroom to yourself.
For selected trips, including cruises, we will charge half the single supplement if you request a roommate but we can’t match you with someone.
This tour starts and ends in Grindelwald, Switzerland. As for most of our trips, the official starting time is 6:00 pm on our official “start date”. At that time we’ll have a reception and orientation, followed by dinner. It ends after breakfast on the last day. You can arrive earlier or depart later, but please note that (as of this writing) check-in time is 4:00 pm, and check-out time is 9:00 am. Our pre-trip newsletter will keep you posted on any changes in these times, as well as tips on what to do with luggage if your travel schedule allows you to fit some activities on your arrival or departure dates.
Grindelwald is a small mountain town in the Alps of central Switzerland, very close to Interlaken. It is easy to reach by train. You’ll generally need to change at the Interlaken Ost railroad station. (Interlaken has two train stations, so be sure you get out at the right one.)
The most direct way to get there is to fly into Zurich, Geneva, or Milan, then connect by train. But many other European cities also have convenient connections. If you want to visit Paris, Munich or Berlin, for example, you may choose to fly into one of those cities instead.
Our gay Switzerland hiking week is designed to be enjoyable for hikers of ALL levels. Our skilled guides will be available throughout the trip to offer alternate options to tailor the activities to any level. Those that are always “raring to go” can hike or climb every segment. Other hikers may choose to hike and ride any of the lifts, buses, trams, cable cars, cog railroads, etc. that are widely available around the Alps.
We also want to remind travelers about the higher altitude (At 3500 feet, Grindelwald is well below the altitude of Denver, but steady uphill hiking will nonetheless be more tiring than at sea level.)
Due to sometimes steep terrain, hiking poles are recommended. Travelers should be comfortable with high-altitude hiking on narrow trails with expansive vistas.
During June, July, and September, daytime temperatures around Grindelwald will generally range from the mid-60s to the high 70s and will drop 5 or 10 degrees as you hike up to higher elevations.
Mountain weather anywhere tends to be unpredictable, and the Bernese Oberlands are no exception. This is a moister climate than, for example, the Zermatt region. That’s why the pastures are so green, and the wildflowers so lush! Some years we have had only a few hours of rain during our entire week around Grindelwald, and a t-shirt will often be all you need. However, it’s quite possible we’ll have a day or two of rain, and you should always carry a sweater and light waterproof top.
Swiss transportation is among the world’s best — but not the simplest. The simple Eurail pass of a generation ago has given way to dozens of pass types. Some cover one country; some several. Some cover travel on a certain number of days, i.e., any 5 days in a 30-day period. It’s particularly complicated in Switzerland, which has many privately-owned rail lines. Some give a discount for some passes, some do not, and it’s virtually impossible to get accurate information about what’s covered until you’re actually there.
If you are not doing additional travel within Switzerland, we recommend the Swiss Card (not to be confused with the Swiss Pass), which will (as of this writing — subject, but not likely, to change), get you from your entry point (the Swiss border, or any airport in Switzerland) to most destinations (including Zermatt and Grindelwald), and back; it also gives you a 50% discount on most additional travel in Switzerland, including some of the lifts and railroads from Zermatt and Grindelwald. You can find out more about various passes from RailEurope. But please remember: We never promised that this was simple.
Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian and Romansch. The prevalent language in this region is Swiss German, a distinct German dialect. If you know German, they’ll understand you, but you may have some trouble understanding them. Fortunately, from a very young age, Swiss children learn many languages. Not everyone speaks English, but enough speak some English that you should be able to get by.
It’s always helpful to be able to read a map, and if you don’t feel you’re good at it, this trip is a good time to practice. (Our affiliated hiking and climbing website offers advice on map, compass and route-finding skills.)
However, the more popular hiking trails in the Alps are generally well marked, with clear signs that indicate distances in walking hours (Std.=stunde, German for hour.) Yellow signs mark a wanderweg, a relatively easy trail. The more difficult Bergwegs (mountain trails) are marked with white-red-white blazes at the top. These may involve scrambling over rocks occasionally, or narrow trails that occasionally wind near a vertical drop.
Swiss trails occasionally cross onto private property. You’re welcome to hike here, but close the gates after you, to keep the sheep or cows in. You’ll see signs that say, Bitte die Tur Schliessen, which means Please close the gate.
Some fences are electrified. You’ll see the telltale plastic or glass insulators. Gates on such fences have plastic latches for you to use.
For answers to your additional questions, please email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 305-294-8174